Laminate update...

Antique Oak Laminate,  all I can say is B-E-A utiful! I think it turned out so beautiful.  Origionally the entry had tile that was beautiful but, then carpet in the side rooms and carpet in the hallway.  After our talented installers started this job I knew that it would be so beautiful! The laminate is hand scraped and the deep color really warms up the home and has a rich look.

I was going to put capitons... I feel like the pictures speak for themselfs! 

Turning back the carpet to install the laminate in the traffic area 'hall way'

This is nice to visualize ...

Some tips to take out your carpet!

So for all the DIY and those of us that like to save money, this is for you.  A few tips for you when you take up your carpet,  it will make it a little easier for you in the long run!

What you need to do before you get your flooring installed…

CARPET:

If the carpet is installed and you want to save some money and take it out yourself, these are just a few tips on how to make sure the job is done easily and correctly.

·        Do NOT take up the TACK STRIP unless you talk to the installers about your concerns.  They will replace it or reinforce it as needed.  Taking up the tack strip ruins the integrity of your existing floor especially on the concrete.  If you have any concerns CALL.  If you are installing a hard surface, then the tack strip can come out.

·        Use a knife (box cutter, exacto knife, or if you have a carpet blade use it) to cut the seams to the room (doorways, ect.) but make sure you leave a few inches of carpet inside the room at the doorway for the carpet installer to work with when installing the carpet. Be super careful the knifes are sharp (I have the scars to prove it)!

·        Cut the carpet into 3 foot strips (so they are easier to manage saving the paint on your walls from any accidents) and roll it up.  This is the easy part.

·        Now for the pad.  On concrete, it is easy to pull up the pad and roll it up. Take a scraper (or square nose shovel) and take up the extra pad glue left on the concrete. Wood is the hard part the pad comes up easily but the staples stay so if you have a scraper (that is not to sharp) just run it along your floor while you pull up the pad and it should knock them out and pull them up.  If you don’t then just use pliers to get all the stray staples after the pad is taken out.

·        Stairs is the hardest part. Pliers are a must (for me) I go to a corner of the stairs on a riser and I pull.  These get the most wear so they are installed well.  Pick out all the staples from the stairs and keep picking till they are gone. When that is over, the hardest part is behind you.

·        Sweep up the sand and the other stuff that was under your carpet.  Over the years when you walk on the carpet the backing breaks down and creates sand stuff. (Don’t be frightened that your kids have been making sand castles in your room.)

·        This part people don’t tell you, if you are taking the carpet to the landfill stack the carpet first then the padding on top.  They usually have you put the padding in a separate bin. This will save you time in the long run.

If the room is unfinished…

·        Baseboards need to be 3/8 inch off the ground to allow for carpet to be tucked under.

·        If you just painted, allow 3 days for your paint to cure MINIMUM.  Carpet backing is like sandpaper, installers are careful but accidents happen.

·        It is best for the room to be dry walled before the room is measured for carpet.

I wish you the best of luck!